A full version with recipes can be found at the Slow Travel Berlin website. more...
Full version with recipes can be found at Slow Travel Berlin. more...
I've been a big fan of Felicity Cloake's Perfect column for the Guardian ever since it started. more...
My apologies to friends and family who will doubtless scorn the moniker "Pommes Purée" as a pretentious name for mashed potato. I use it here to designate a mash made from waxier potatoes rather than the floury potatoes used in a more everyday mash.
Serves 6 as a side dish
1kg waxy potatoes, such as Ratte or Charlottes
180g butter, cut into dice
Peel the potatoes and put them into a large pan of cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer until cooked through. Drain and run cold water over them for a few minutes to bring the temperature down rapidly. Allow them to stand in the colander for half an hour or so to dry slightly.
Pass through a potato ricer, season lightly and mix vigorously with the butter until well combined. If you can face it, then pass the whole mixture through a sieve. At this point, you can safely leave them for a couple of hours.
About 20 minutes before you want to serve, put them into a saucepan with about half of the milk. Heat gently, whilst vigorously stirring until warm and milk has been absorbed. Turn the heat up slightly, add the rest of the milk and continue stirring hard enough to make your arm ache until you have a perfectly smooth, hot mixture. Serve immediately; they do not hold their temperature for very long.